What to do in Baños de Agua Santa

by Daniel

Baños de Agua Santa (usually just called Baños) is recognized as one of the most beautiful and most visited cities in all of Ecuador. And it has certainly earned this reputation because once you see it, you’ll know exactly why it has become so touristic.

I skipped over this place on my first 2-month-long trip to Ecuador, and upon returning several years later, I realized that I may have made a mistake. Baños is a small to medium-sized city that sits in a valley surrounded by green mountains and the snow-capped Tungurahua volcano.

The town is charming, the setting is beautiful as it’s a mix between the giant mountains of the Andes and the tropical jungle vibes of the Amazon, and it has become a magnet for adventure seekers due to great hiking, scenery, and adventure sports.

In this article, I’m going to tell you all about what to do in Baños de Agua Santa based on my several trips to this town, short and long, in 2023 and 2024.

Is Baños de Agua Santa worth visiting?

Baños de Agua Santa is definitely worth a visit while traveling through Ecuador because it’s got a bit of everything. When you hear of Baños, you’re likely to think of its picture-perfect setting or adventure sports, but there’s a lot more to it.

First off, the setting is beautiful. It’s perfect for relaxing, connecting with nature, and hiking. But unlike the sleepy little towns we tend to visit due to the natural beauty of the area, there’s lots to do in Baños, and it’s a very livable city.

The town is walkable and budget-friendly. The streets are charming and modernized, with nice cafes, restaurants, and craft shops all over the place. You can easily spend your days just walking around town, doing some shopping, and exploring the food scene.

Baños has a vibrant nightlife scene, but it doesn’t dominate the city like it does in Montañita. There are plenty of waterfalls, sightseeing activities, and several thermal hot springs in the area, which are a huge plus. For the icing on the cake, this city also has a lot of culture, tradition, and folklore in the area, which gives it another layer of depth.

What to do in Banos

Baños de Agua Santa is famous for three main reasons: its hot springs, its waterfalls, and its adventure tourism. The town is named after its thermal baths, which are naturally heated by the nearby Tungurahua volcano and said to have healing properties.

It’s also known for the Ruta de las Cascadas, a scenic route with dozens of waterfalls, including the iconic Pailón del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron), one of the most stunning in the country. On top of that, Baños has earned a reputation as Ecuador’s adrenaline capital, where you can find all sorts of adventure activities and extreme sports for a very reasonable price.

So let’s get into it.

Here I will share all of my biggest recommendations for what to do in Baños de Agua Santa, including some hidden gems that nobody talks about.

Soak in the Thermal Baths at Termas de la Virgen

View of the main thermal pools at Termas de la Virgen
Termas de la Virgen alternative therapies and massages
Alternative therapies offered at Termas de la Virgen

Probably my favorite reason for being in Baños is the hot springs. Termas de la Virgen is the main spot, although there are several hot springs around the city. It’s in the city, walking distance from the town center, and fed by a waterfall that’s considered sacred, and has a history of being blessed water that has powerful healing properties.

The tale goes that this is where the Virgin Mary was seen, giving these waters mystical properties. Although it does get busy, especially at night, it’s still a great spot with several different hot tubs and plunge pools overlooking the city lights, softened by the sounds of the waterfall.

Termas de la Virgin opens from 2:00 pm – 8:30 pm on weekdays, and 10:00 am – 8:30 pm on weekends. Admission to the pools is $3 – $4, which gives you access to the 3 thermal pools and swimming pools for the day. Wearing a swimming cap is a requirement, you can rent one for 50c in the tiendas just down the street, about 100m away from the entrance. The pools also have a snack bar and a storage, which is included in admission.

They also offer services at Termas de la Virgen, such as massages and holistic therapies. So, if you want to double down on the healing and wellness, this is a great place to do it.


Visit El Pailón del Diablo in Río Verde

At the viewing platform of El Pailón del Diablo, Río Verde, Ecuador
View of the main viewing platform (lower) of El Pailón del Diablo, Río Verde, Ecuador

Possibly the most popular activity in Baños, which isn’t even in Baños… If you ask for recommendations on what to do, hotel receptionists and locals will always point you here. I didn’t bother seeing this until my last trip to Baños because I usually try and avoid the touristy stuff. But, on my 5th or 6th visit to Baños, I gave in.

And I’m glad I did!

El Pailón del Diablo (or devil’s cauldron) is a raging waterfall, or rather a series of waterfalls, tunnels, and walkways that go around and underneath the waterfall. It’s situated in an iconic spot: in a giant rock pool, which is what gives it its name.

You can jump on any bus passing down the main highway cutting through Baños and hop off in Rio Verde, about 15 minutes from Baños.

There are two different access points, the newer upper trail and the older lower trail. Each access is $2 during the day, $4 in the evenings. I suggest taking the lower path. It doubles up as a nice little hike down the mountain, equipped with a restaurant overlooking the river, and it seems more extensive. This leads you closer to the base of the waterfall, where you have some stunning views, and there’s also a bridge crossing the valley, which is a nice addition.

While you’re visiting Pailón del Diablo, make sure to check out Grieta al Cielo.

Grieta al Ciela is a crawlspace that leads you right underneath the waterfall. It’s pretty tricky to get through, especially if you’re a tall Gringo like I am, but once you make it to the other side you’ll have a spectacular, almost too-intimate experience with the grand waterfall.

Grieta al Cielo crawlspace
Climbing up a tricky rock face at Grieta al Cielo
Getting soaked under the waterfall

While You’re There, Check Out Río Verde

Río Verde is worth a visit too. It’s actually quite a nice little town, although most people just go to see Pailón del Diablo and then head back. But you can spend a few hours here walking around, getting some local food, and even swimming in the river or giant pool fed by the river.

There are some nice cafes, nice bars, and spending some time getting to know the town before or after visiting Pailón del Diablo. When you’re ready to head back to Baños, just jump on one of the local blue buses you see zipping down C. Enrique Monje.

Rio Verde Ecuador

Have a Drink at Eloy Alfaro

Eloy Alfaro
Having a beer at Soma Beer Garden in Eloy Alfaro
Park in the mountains
Palomino Flores (Central Park)

Eloy Alfaro is a street running through the center of the city, where most of the nightlife is located. While there isn’t so much happening during the day, everything opens at night, giving the street a lively ambiance filled with music, crowds, food, and noise.

This is the main nightlife/bar street in the center of Baños, just a block or two from the main square. This street is lined with bars, restaurants, and nightclubs, creating a very lively ambiance during the nights and weekends.

Leprechaun Bar is the most popular venue amongst tourists. This is a big venue with several rooms, several bars, and a central fire pit. It has a very lively atmosphere, it’s got character, and it’s a great spot for mingling. Drop in for a beer or go barhopping. If you’re looking for a drink or several, there is something for you here.

The picture is NOT of Eloy Alfaro. That’s the next street over….

La Casa del Árbol and Other Instagram Hotspots

View from Las Manos de Dios Baños de Agua Santa

If you’re looking for the best photo opportunities, Baños has lots of spots just waiting to take your money. Honestly, with so many nice views, I think some of these ‘photo parks’ are pretty tacky… But the chiva trip (the colorful, open-air buses or trucks used for transport and tourism) is quite nice, so I’ll pop this in here too.

There are day tours where you jump in a chiva and they will take you up the mountains via C. Sendero San Francisco (the road after the bridge) to some parks. You will visit multiple parks which has different photo props, aka. Instagram hotspots.

Chilling at a viewpoint while I wait for the Chiva to leave.

Stopping at a park every 10 minutes gets sorta old, especially when you need to pay to get into each one just to take a photo. So, I didn’t go into any of them, but I still had some amazing views from the roadside cafes. You can see Chivas lining up on the E30 (the main road going through Baños) close to the bus station, where you pay $3 or $4 for the ride.

If you’re looking for the King of Instagram hotsports, head to La Casa del Árbol, where you can ride a giant swing that sends you flying over the edge of a cliff with the valley below you. It’s become an iconic Ecuador photo op, labelled ‘edge of the world’. If you don’t care about photo spots, let’s move on…


Try Out Some Adventure Sports

Baños is Ecuador’s adventure capital. Besides just being in a beautiful setting, people from all over come here specifically to do adventure sports. There are a lot of travel agencies around and places where you can join an adventure tour, but be a bit careful because some will overcharge you if you don’t barter. Here I’ve added some of the most popular adventure sports, and reputable places to do them.

Canyoning

Involves rappelling down waterfalls, usually at Cascada El Silencio, which we’ll cover later on in the article. Baños de Agua Santa is one of the best places in Ecuador to try rappelling because the place is filled with waterfalls! The tour provides all the equipment, some training, and expert guidance, so you’re in good hands. Want to give it a shot? Book it here.

Rafting

Whitewater rafting in Baños de Agua Santa is one of the most popular adventure sports, especially on the Pastaza River, which offers a mix of Class III and IV rapids set against a backdrop of lush jungle and volcanic cliffs. This Extreme Rafting Tour includes a scenic 40-minute drive along the Route of the Waterfalls to the river, a 1.5-hour rafting session, and lunch. They also include professional photos and round-trip transportation.

Rock Climbing

Rock climbing in Baños is an exhilarating experience for climbers of all skill levels. The region’s volcanic rock formations, particularly the basaltic walls formed by the Tungurahua volcano, provide a variety of climbing routes that cater to both beginners and seasoned climbers. The Half-Day Private Rock Climbing in Canton Baños tour is a highly reputable agency that includes transportation, equipment, and very knowledgeable guides.

Paragliding

The Parapente Vive La Experiencia De Volar Económico tour provides a budget-friendly tandem flight experience. Departing from Baños, you are then transported to the Nitón sector near Pelileo, approximately 45 minutes away. After a safety briefing and equipment setup, you’ll take to the skies for a 15 to 20-minute flight, enjoying panoramic views of the Tungurahua volcano and the valleys below. This adventure is suitable for beginners, as no prior experience is required, and all necessary gear and professional guidance are included.

Bungee Jumping

There is a bridge in Banos… An infamous bridge. People like to jump off it. This bridge is called Puente San Francisco, and it passes over a raging water that seems fun to swim in from a distance, but then you realize it would result in almost certain death if you did.

If you’re interested in bungee jumping in Banos, you can book here or go to their office. It’s only $20, so it’s a very good price.

For me, I’m not so much of a jumping guy. I prefer the sweet meadows, swimming in the rivers, maybe climbing a volcano or two. So that brings me to my next point. If Bungee jumping isn’t your thing…

Watch People Bungee Jump!

One of my favorite spots in Baños is under Puente San Francisco. There is a secondary bridge that crosses the river, leading to a small grassy spot with a trail leading upwards. Here, there will be some benches, graffiti, and concrete. This is a nice spot to get some beautiful views of the city and river, as shown in the picture above.

If you’re a little bit careful, you can follow the road most of the way to Playita Salomon, where you will see a little trail shooting off to the left (towards the river), through the dense vegetation. If you follow this path down, it will lead you to the rocky outcrop, which is a really nice place to sit by the rushing water, meditating, or just relaxing.


Visit Cascada El Silencio

There is a beautiful trail and waterfall about a half-hour walk from Baños that is almost untouched by tourism. And honestly… I have no idea why. All you need to do is walk along the main road until you cross a bridge over a river, and turn right at C. Juan Montalvo.

Path to Cascada del silencio, Banos

This path with bring you to a gate with a little, what looks to be a ticket booth, and you’ll need to pay a dollar or so to get in. From there, you need to walk a little bit. It’s a nice walk in nature along the river, so don’t worry, it doesn’t feel like a chore.

At one point, the path branches. One path goes to the left, and the other carries on. Both of these paths take you to different waterfalls. The path on the left takes you to Cascada El Silencio, where you might see some people rappelling. However, if you continue straight and follow the river, the waterfall it leads to is larger and more beautiful.

This is a lovely spot to relax, sit on the rocks, meditate, and feel the gentle spray of the raging waterfall. The best part? There are rarely other people around, so you can enjoy the serenity of the space.

Go up to the Look-Out Point: La Virgen

Steps up to Mirador La Virgen

If you’re up for a bit of a hike, you should climb Mirador La Virgen, which is about a half-hour walk from the town center. It’s easily accessible, and it’s a beautiful spot to get a great view of the city and surroundings.

There is a steep dirt trail you can follow starting from the lookout point, which will eventually lead you to a farm. If you pass through the farm, it will connect to a main road where you’re near a small theme park, a look-out point, and a swing. This is a very ‘off the beaten track’ track, that I wouldn’t recommend to my worst enemy.

Otherwise, before you start the steps, the road branches. There is also another path that leads up to the top of the mountain. This one is a proper trek, so be prepared if you do it.

View from Mirador La Virgen

Steep in the Local Folklore

You might notice when you’re in Banos de Agua Santa that duendes (goblins, or small, mischievous nature spirits) are a thing… You will see that there are several parks following the magical duende theme, and you might be wondering what that’s all about.

Well, let me enlighten you from my limited knowledge.

Baños de Agua Santa is sometimes referred to as the land of the duendes because of its deep roots in local folklore and mysticism. This land has long been recognized as a place where the veil between worlds is thin. Many locals believe that duendes live in the surrounding forests, caves, and rivers.

These beliefs are tied to Andean and Amazonian indigenous traditions, where nature is seen as alive and inhabited by spiritual beings. Duendes are thought to protect the land but can also play tricks on those who don’t respect nature. They’re a big part of the folklore and spiritual heritage of the town.

In Baños, you’ll find shops selling figurines of duendes, stories passed down through generations, and even guides who’ll tell you where sightings supposedly happened.

La Casa Del Duende
El Bosque Encantado

There are some places you can visit, which are essentially theme parks. I’ve been to a couple. One notable place is known as La Casa Del Duende, and it’s about a 15-minute walk from the city center. This is a private park with lots of sculptures and figurines of Duendes, and information about these creatures. Worth a visit if you’re into folklore and that kinda stuff.

Where to stay in Baños de Agua Santa

Mama Tungu Hostel

Mama Tunga Hostel is my favorite spot to stay in Banos. This hostel is amazing. It’s a little outside the city, which can be a pro or con depending on how you look at it, but it’s either a 5-minute taxi ride or a 30-minute walk, so it’s still accessible.

This little nook in the mountains is the perfect getaway. The premise is huge, with plenty of social areas, games, tables, a pool, a hot tub, a treehouse, and a giant net overlooking the mountain. It also has a bar, a restaurant, and good areas to work if you’re doing the whole digital nomad thing. It strikes the perfect balance between being a social hostel and having privacy. Book it here.

Samari Spa Resort

Located about a 10-minute walk from the city, Samari Spa Resort in Baños offers a luxurious stay in a colonial-style setting with a heated pool, sauna, and full-service spa. You will have a large, bright room with modern amenities, buffet breakfasts, and an on-site restaurant. Located near local attractions like the craft market and Agua Santa Church, the resort also provides free parking and excursion booking. Book here.

Casa Gaviota Dorada

At a mid-price range, this suite is a steal. Casa Gaviota is a large, modern, and spacious suite in the heart of the city. It’s one of the highest-rated accommodations in the city because of the amazing value for money. The place even comes equipped with a Jacuzzi, while being the perfect place for digital nomads and longer stays. Book here.

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