What to Do in Cuenca, Ecuador?

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In 2023, I spent 6 months living just outside of Cuenca when working at a shamanic healing center in the area. Since 2017, I’ve been back to this city countless times as it often serves as a base to travel to Ecuador when I return to this beautiful country, and I consider it my second home.

I don’t have a first home because I’m a nomadic traveler, but you get the idea…

Cuenca is one of the larger cities in Ecuador, and it’s one of the most popular cities for foreigners to visit when traveling in Ecuador. It’s undoubtedly a beautiful city filled with well-preserved colonial architecture, some beautiful national parks just around the corner, and it has just about everything you could ask for.

On the three separate occasions I’ve been back to Ecuador, Cuenca was my base. I would regularly move to and from the coast, to Baños de Agua Santa and the Amazon, but always find my way back here. Now I have a community and a network of friends who live in this vibrant city, so I’ve gotten to know the city from a local’s perspective too.

So, here I’m going to tell you all about this city, including the best things to do in Cuenca, the best restaurants, bars, hotels, and hostels. Let’s dive in!

Walk Around the Historical Center

Cuenca is a lively city, especially in the historical center. Streets are lined with shops, modern cafes, and nice restaurants. You can easily spend your days walking around, exploring, and getting caught up in all there is to do in this city.

There are plenty of nice streets, alleyways, restaurants, and bars to check out, and most of the action is centered around Parque Calderón and Calle Larga, just a few minutes walk away.

Cuenca’s historical center is photogenic. You’ll find lots of little alleyways and hidden gems if you do a bit of exploring. I also suggest checking out the Tomebamba River and exploring Av. Fray Vincente Solano, Av. Remigio Crespo Toral and the surrounding areas on the other side.

It’s also worth checking out Cuenca’s nightlife.

While maybe not as bustling as Montañita, Cuenca has a good nightlife scene, especially around Calle Larga and the Tomebamba River. This place especially comes alive during weekend evenings, with foreigners and locals buzzing around.

Walk Along the Tomebamba River to Parque El Paraíso

Walking along the Tomebamba River is like a daily ritual when I’m in Cuenca. It’s a super relaxing walk while you listen to the sounds of the running water. The path runs parallel to a cobblestone street, which is dotted with trendy cafes, bars, and nice restaurants.

The riverwalk that winds along the Río Tomebamba is one of the most peaceful spots in the city. It has nice walking trails running parallel to the river, where it feels peaceful and quiet, even though it’s in the middle of the city. There are plenty of open grassy spaces to have a picnic, do some yoga, or just relax and listen to the sounds of nature.

This walk will take you past Pumapungo Ruins & Ethnographic Museum, and towards Parque El Paraíso if you follow it far enough. Parque El Paraíso is a large open area with a nice forested area and a cool boardwalk. Most foreigners don’t go this far, but it’s a nice park filled with Eucalyptus and where you feel like you can get away from it all for a while.

Visit the Pumapungo Ruins & Ethnographic Museum

The Pumapungo Archaeological Park is a beautiful spot, and only about a 20-minute walk from the city center. You can walk along the Tomebamba River to get there.

The Pumapungo Archaeological Park is definitely worth a visit, because first off, it’s free. Don’t we all just love those free things, especially when there’s a whole lot to see? This place doubles up as a museum and an archaeological site, so it’s a two-hit wonder.

The museum is quite big, with four stories, all showcasing different things. Although the last time I visited this museum was in 2024, the museum was remodelled and compacted to 3 floors. Mostly the same stuff, just a little less of it.

Here’s what to expect:

• The lower floor (down the steps from the ground floor) is all about currency, politics, and historical influences on Ecuador.
  
• The ground floor is more about the history of the country, the tribes, crafts, traditions, and so forth. It’s packed with artifacts, diagrams, and models from the Inca and other indigenous tribes in the area, including clay pots, ornaments, weapons, dress, and all that good stuff.
  
• The first floor is the most interesting in my opinion, showcasing traditions of the Amazonian tribes. There is a section dedicated to the Shuar, who were the tribe that shrank heads, maybe you’ve heard of them, or seen some of the films that have elements inspired by them (like Harry Potter…). You can see the shrunken heads in the museum, too, along with information and artifacts used in their shamanic culture, most notably with Ayahuasca.

Once you go out the back door, you’re free to walk around the Incan ruins. They’re quite extensive, actually, and feel more like a park. There is a small animal enclosure with some different species of birds, too, which is nice to see, although a little bit depressing.

Check Out the Local Markets

Cuenca has a big market scene, and some of them are worth a visit. Mercado 10 de Agosto and Mercado 9 de Agosto are two of the main markets in Cuenca. These markets are huge and feel somewhat like shopping malls… without the glamour. But there are also some other markets around too, including craft markets, flower markets, and so on.

With that said, they’re great places to explore, buy produce, or get some food. These markets are filled with food stands and the like, and you can certainly get some delicious meals for cheap. The main markets that I’m aware of are:

• Mercado 10 de Agosto: Big market full of food, produce, vegetables, and meats. Great to get a cheap, tasty meal!
  
• Mercado 9 de Agosto: Similar to 10 de Agosto, but with a large section dedicated to holistic remedies, herbs, and plant medicines. You can even get a limpia (cleansing) from a medicine woman for a few dollars.
  
• Mercado de San Francisco: A Big open-air market that has mostly clothing stores and textiles. Check out the little corridors between the stores (and inside the stores) because some of those little stores are much bigger on the inside…
  
• Mercado de Artesanias Rotary: A craft market that sells a lot of interesting gadgets and doodads.

Get a Limpia

Go to Cajas National Park

This one really deserves a post of its own. Cajas National Park is one of those must-see places that are so often missed by foreigners. But if you have the time, you should visit it.

Cajas National Park is arguably one of the best hiking spots in all of Ecuador. The park is massive, and it’s one of the two only biomes of its sort in the world. This means that the landscape, flora, and fauna are unique, and it’s almost certain you’ve never seen an environment quite like it. At a high altitude of 4200 meters, it gets frosty, so bring a jacket.

So, how do you get there?

Although there are private shuttles, you can go to Terminal Terrestre, which is the main bus terminal in Cuenca, and jump on any bus that is going to Guayaquil (Cajas is along that road). Once you walk into the terminal, you’ll probably have some people asking you where you need to go, which will point you to the right ticket booth.

I think 2 ticket booths in the terminal sell tickets to Guayaquil, which should be labelled clearly, and they’re right next to each other, so just go in and ask. You will pay around $1.50 for the ticket

Visit Mirador de Turi

If you’re up for a workout, you can hike to the viewpoint. The trail is approximately 2 kilometers long and is considered moderately difficult, primarily consisting of a series of steps leading up to the viewpoint.

As you ascend, you’ll be treated to stunning views of Cuenca and the surrounding landscape. The hike takes about 1–2 hours, depending on your pace, and is best done early in the morning to avoid the midday heat.

You can reach Mirador de Turi in a few different ways. If you’re up for a workout, there’s a staircase hike that starts from the city and winds its way up, about 20–30 minutes of uphill climbing with rewarding views along the way.

If you prefer to skip the sweat, grab a taxi from anywhere in Cuenca for about $3 or $4, or hop on a local bus (like lines 11, 7, or 13) for just 25 cents. For something more touristy, you can also take the double-decker city tour bus from Parque Calderón, which includes Turi as one of its scenic stops.

Visit Amaru Zoológico Bioparque

Amaru Zoológico Bioparque is a little different from a zoo as it’s a conservation-focused wildlife sanctuary that emphasizes education, natural habitats, and animal rescue, housing many of Ecuador’s diverse species.

You can easily spend an entire day walking through this huge wildlife sanctuary. It’s a great spot to learn about local ecosystems while supporting conservation efforts, and the hike-through layout makes it feel more like a proper day of hiking that incorporates animal enclosures rather than a space for human entertainment.

Regarding distance, it’s not too far from the city. I walked there and back, but it’s probably about an hour each direction from the city center, with some of the road leading up a mountain. Then… you will spend another couple of hours walking through the park.

With that said, there is a Taxi rank out front of the entrance. Amaru Zoológico Bioparque is open Monday to Sunday, 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. The entrance fee will cost you $9.

Explore the Food Scene

Beyond the restaurants, Cuenca’s markets, such as Mercado 10 de Agosto, provide an immersive culinary experience. Here, you can sample street foods like llapingachos (cheese-stuffed potato patties) and freshly made empanadas, or sip on a glass of colada morada, a spiced berry and corn drink traditionally enjoyed during the Day of the Dead.

Likewise, there are plenty of street food stands around Cuenca, so try some of them out!

Notable Bars, Restaurants, and Cafes in Cuenca

• Palier Cafe Libro: Cute little cafe in a bookstore, close to the town center. Sometimes I go there to chill out and have a coffee, or attempt to read a book in Spanish, which usually leads me to give up after the first two paragraphs.
  
• Jodoco Belgian Bistro: If you’re a beer person and want a real beer, Jodoco Belgian Bistro has you covered! Keep in mind that the beers here are not cheap, though.
  
• Bistro Yaku: Hidden at the back of Hostel Yaku, this is my favorite restaurant and bar in Cuenca. First off, it’s a beautiful courtyard venue that is hidden from the world, with a little secret garden and everything. The food is delicious, and not overpriced, and they have a good happy hour special where you can sink some Mojitos and other cocktails for a few dollars. Likewise, they also have a stage and have live music sometimes.
  
• Gorilla Shot Time (Remigio Crespo): Quirky little bar along Av. Remigio Crespo Toral
  
• EL MESÓN ESPAÑOL: Good restaurant for a good price. One of the best places for Almuero in Cuenca
  
• Chocolateria Dos Chorreras Cuenca: Quirky chocolate-themed restaurant and cafe located in the heart of Cuenca. Also doubles up as a shop

Where to stay in Cuenca

Here are my suggestions for places to stay in Cuenca, Ecuador.